Mediterranean Inspirations

“I won’t be happy until there is a paella pan on every backyard grill in America.”
—José Andrés

For most of us, the opportunity to wander a seaside Mediterranean trade hub infrequently arises. Smells of cinnamon, cumin and roasting shellfish. A chef thinly slicing Ibérico ham. Stuffed grape leaves and samples of Chios mastiha. Bowls of ajo blanco and cumin-scented yogurt. Skordalia and romesco sauces served with manchego and barrel-aged feta.

It’s time to leave, but there is still so much left to taste! Cured Italian hams, couscous, tagines, skewered lamb, Valencia paella and roasted Persian beetroots!

I’m not in the Mediterranean, but rather the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley, at this year’s Worlds of Flavor conference: “A Mediterranean Flavor Odyssey: Preserving and Reinventing the Traditions for Modern Palates.”

While there is no question that Italian cuisine has penetrated the U.S. casual-dining arena, other regions like the Middle East, North Africa, Greece and Turkey are not well represented. And although Spanish food is generally no longer lumped in with Mexico and South America, its cooking styles and regional flavors are still not widely accepted by mainstream diners.

Just south of Spain, in the Northern African regions (Morocco and Tunisia) the combination of sweet fruit and savory meat is typical. A visible French influence can be seen in the Tunisian “submarine” sandwiches that use French baguettes, and chakchouka, similar to a layered vegetable ratatouille. North African cuisine also includes couscous and bastilla.

Further east is the divided cuisine of Turkey, with one foot in Asia and the other in Europe. The cuisine is a blend of Greek-style/European food from the west and the Asian-influenced flavors of the east. Classic Turkish ingredients include nuts, rose water, honey and yogurt, served with both sweet and savory dishes. The Middle Eastern ingredients include eggplant, chickpeas, pomegranates, bulgur wheat, lentils and sesame seeds, used to make the classic tahini sauce. Dips made from beans and vegetables are eaten meze-style with flatbreads and pita.

The region from Spain through eastern Turkey has many similarities due to the shared climate and use of common ingredients like olive

Photo: Rachel Zemser

oil, garlic, couscous, yogurt, vegetable and bean purées, nut-based sauces, puff pastry, and dried fruits.

Popular cooking styles that are seen throughout the Mediterranean include: stuffing fruit and vegetables; wrapping seasoned rice and meat in leaves or thinly sliced vegetables (Greek dolmades and Turkish eggplant wraps); combining sweet and savory ingredients (cinnamon, fruits and meats); stew-style sharable dishes (tagines, casseroles and paellas); and kebabs, with chicken, lamb, beef and vegetables skewered and cooked on the grill. Flatbreads are usually served with most meals, and to make sandwiches.