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Emulsified Sauce Science and a This Original

03/31/2010

When Hervé This and Nicolas Kurti begin collaborations that would result in the famous coining of the term “molecular gastronomy,” a primary goal was to lift the veil of ignorance largely surrounding the chemical and physical processes behind everyday culinary practices.

These investigations included analysis of emulsion sauces—although not every emulsion is created alike. For instance, hollandaise involves dispersing water into fat. Conversely, when making mayonnaise, fat is dispersed into water. The functional emulsifying component here is the lecithin in egg yolk.

This created his own emulsion, sauce Kientzheim, named after his hometown in Alsace, France. It has similarities to hollandaise and béarnaise, but with a thicker viscosity and hints of caramelized notes. He describes it as a hollandaise turned into a warm mayonnaise, made with butter vs. oil. A key ingredient is beurre noisette.

Sauce Kientzheim has appeared on the menu at Pierre Gagnaire, as well as a handful of other Paris eateries.


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