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A Scientific Basis for Cilantro Aversion

04/21/2010

Although millions of people around the world regularly—and happily—consume cilantro, it evokes a strong level of disliking in many others. The reasons behind this go beyond a simple matter of taste and might have genetic ties. A scientific exploration of the chemical composition of the green, leafy herb can also lend some clues.

Some cultures, particularly in Asia, make culinary use of cilantro in abundance. But if the herb does not have a regular role in an individual’s particular culinary history, the consumer’s mind will attempt to make a connection—and that link might be to something inedible, like soap or lotion.

Cilantro contains aldehydes (organic compounds) that sensory specialists have described as “soapy.” If the eater’s brain doesn’t connect this flavor or aroma with a desirable, culinary quality, it may be rejected as offending—a part of our instinctual flavor-mind survival wiring. However, prolonged exposure to the initially offending food creates a mental context for it, and people can eventually learn to love it. The cilantro might still cultivate a connection to soapy qualities, but the mind has learned that it’s not threatening.

Interestingly, Japanese studies have shown that crushing cilantro eventually converts its offending aldehydes into substances that have no aroma, making something like cilantro pesto a good place to start for those who have traditionally found cilantro offensive.


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