Scientifically Crafting Healthier Ice Creams

Stan Frankenthaler executive chef and director of culinary development, Dunkin’ Brands, Canton, MA, wears top toque over at Baskin-Robbins, and he recently charged his team with creating a line of light ice-cream options, including fat-free, dairy-free, no-sugar-added and light. Launched earlier this year, the resulting BRight Choices™ ice creams, sorbets and frozen yogurts range from 80 to 140 calories per 2.5-oz. scoop.

“Our development really focused on the principles of ‘no trade down’ for the consumer,” says Frankenthaler. “We want to deliver the great Baskin-Robbins eating experience, but with less guilt.”

The scientific methods of flattening and widening dairy-fat molecules yields lower-fat ice creams—variously dubbed “double churned,” “slow churned” or “premium churned” by marketers. “That method smashes the fat globules, so when eaten they spread across your palate better,” says Frankenthaler. “You get a bigger impression of fat than if I simply take out the fat and didn’t manipulate the remaining globules. The result is a creamier, more-satisfying ice cream with half the fat.”

Baskin-Robbins has also unveiled a fat-free frozen yogurt boasting live and active cultures. “We looked at the attention that Activia™ was getting and saw how the virtues were hugely popular,” says Frankenthaler. “It’s actually a great return to old ways of culturing and fermenting dairy as opposed to modern shortcuts. Those cultures have flavors, and because they’re alive, they also promote good, healthy virtues in the body.”

Frankenthaler and his team worked with dairy-science experts to create a synergistic blend of five bacteria. “You want a certain tartness in a frozen yogurt—ideally you want it from the result of the cultures,” says Frankenthaler. “It’s better flavor, and when you get the right blend of cultures, it’s magic.”

Katie Ayoub owns Katie Ayoub Editorial Services. She’s an award-winning writer and is former managing editor of Chef magazine and editor-in-chief of Sizzle magazine. For more information, visit www.katieayoub.com.